Looking Back

Hello to the few folks out there still checking this.

Its been well over a month since we returned from New Zealand. We were on our trip for 6 weeks but it feels now like a blink of an eye - something so fleeting that it is difficult to grasp. As you know from previous posts it was an amazing trip, an experience that Julie and I will treasure forever. If you ever get a chance to leave it all behind and travel the world a bit, please don't hesitate. It's worth it.

When we last left you we had just completed the best (and by far longest) hike of our lives down in Milford. From Milford we boarded a bus for the 3 hr trek back to Queenstown. Queenstown is the capital of sorts for the lower portion of the South Island and has been made famous as the 'adventure sport' capital of the world. Here you can bungy jump, skydive, parasail, luge, jetboat, white water raft, and whatever other crazy thing you can think of. Everywhere you go there are tour operators, gear shops, and bars to get you drunk enough to do one of these things.

The other side of Queenstown is its lovely location - along one of NZ's largest lakes, ringed by majestic mountains (most notably the Remarkables, home of some of the best skiing in NZ), with plenty of parkland by the lake to soak it all in.

Unsurprisingly, Jules and I concentrated more on the latter part of Queenstown for the two days we were there at the end of our trip, while sampling the former. Check out the pics...

After Queenstown we flew back up to Auckland and immediately hopped in a car to drive up to the 'Northland', the dramatic spit of land at the tip of the North Island. This area is renowed for its beachs and sunny climes...and apparently its thunderstorms. We had constant rain while we visited, but hey it was still a good time.

The main purpose of our trip was to see the giant Kauri trees. These are the second most massive trees on earth after the Sequoias in Cali. The trees didn't disappoint - some were as wide as the biggest sequoias though not as tall. Just these squat behemoths. Pretty cool.

So in the raining north, which is supposed to be the sunny north, we ended our epic journey. We flew home with few difficulties, besides lugging the australian wine that Jules spoted at the duty free store. Keep that girl away from duty free wine, yikes. :)

...Now, six months later, trying to finish the post with a quick comment!

Hard to put a capstone on the trip which is why this post never got finished. A trip of a lifetime. Absolutely. A surreal dream, something that seems apart of someone else's life, certainly not the humdrum normality of our everday. Hmm, a bit melodramatic perhaps. So no more words.

The Milford Track

The Milford track is described as the 'greatest walk in the world'. While there is obviously a fair degree of hyperbole here, it was clearly the best hike we've ever been on.

A big part of this was the amazing weather we enjoyed. The region where the track is located is the second wettest place in the world, raining 2 out of 3 days and well over 20 feet a year. Two weeks before we were on the track it had rained so much that the water on the track was over four feet deep - again on the track itself, not in the innumerable streams running through the region. We however had rain for the first 20 minutes of the four day tramp and then amazing, unbelievable blue sky the rest of the time. Lucky!

The track starts off in a relatively flat river valley and we enjoyed tramping about for ~12 miles along the easy track with great views of the mountains towering 4-6ooo feet overhead. The valley was very narrow and the mountains extremely steep and snow capped - great!

Both pics above are taken on the first day right at the beginning and the only time we needed rain gear! Julie is crossing the first of nine swing bridges on the tramp while Dan is hanging out by the Clinton river that we were to follow for the next day and a half.

Just one of the amazing views we enjoyed that second day as we walked up the valley - lots of waterfalls, a gorgeous river, and tall mountains.

The pic above looks toward the head of the valley and in the middle distant shows the relatively low and flat Mackinnon pass (which we were soon to conquer!).

Starting at the end of the second day we began to go up to the top of Mackinnon pass, the highest point on the track at a little over 3000 feet. Being masochistic lunatics we decided to go to the top of the pass on the second day (after hiking 10 miles earlier in the day) because the weather was gorgeous and the forecast for the next day was for clouds. We love alpine scenery and we would have been seriously bummed if we missed out on what were supposed to be amazing views.

So we climbed straight up for 2 hours on tired legs to the top of the pass (knowing that we were going to have to not only climb down but repeat the whole thing the next morning). However, we were rewarded with the most stunning scenery we have ever seen.

After basking in the glorious view and our accomplishment for tackling the pass, we headed back down. On the way down we were lucky enough to see (and not just hear) an avalanche falling from a safe perspective. This was cool and came on top of experiencing a relatively large earthquake earlier that morning. The quake happened at 5 am, was 5.9 on the richter, and was centered nearly directly below us. Strange that our first big quake happened not in San Fran but in the middle of NZ wilderness. No damage done but Dan was not feeling too secure in the top bunk as the building shook while Julie was happy that Dan would take the brunt of anything falling from the ceiling as she was safe in the bottom bunk (nice). Quite a wake up call!

By the end of the second day we had hiked over 15 miles in one day, 10 of them with packs, and frankly could barely move (at least Dan). Unfortunately, the next day we would have to tackle another 10 miles, not to mention the pass for a second time. Doh!

The good news was that while the clouds forecasted were there, they did not totally obscure the view. In fact it was a best case scenario, the same view was transformed into something just as beautiful but quite different. Sublime!
Dan standing at the actual high point of the hike amidst the clouds and mountains. Above is a view back into the Clinton valley where we had walked the day before - essentially the reverse of the image above showing the Mackinnon pass in the distance.

After the tortuous climb down from the pass, we manged to drag our aching feet and knees toward another highlight of the track. At 1904 feet, the Sutherland falls is the fifth (or third?) tallest in the world. After a brief side trip, we managed to get to its base. Wow! Being an idiot, an evidently a friend of an idiot, I copied my buddy Dave who had done this all a few years back, and decided to walk behind the massive falls. After scrambling over soaking wet moss covered rocks designed explicitly to trip you up, I managed to get right next to the falls. By this time I was beyond soaked by the tremendous amounts of mist flying up - ah well, hopefully the pic from the waterproof camera turns out. I managed to extricate myself without incident and only felt a bit of a fool as I stumbled on back a few miles in wet clothes.

Sutherland from a distance - hard to imagine but those falls are close to 2000 feet high!

For our final day we had yet another 11 miles to hike but were blessed with another great day. We were carried along by breathtaking views at every step - plus the knowledge that after four days we were getting ourselves to a shower, beer, fried food, and all the other delights of civilization.

A view from our lunch spot looking over the Arthur river. Not bad!

Yet another waterfall but a pretty one that served as a great resting spot before the final push to the end of the track.

So our guidebook indicated that the track was 33 miles long. When we finally reached mile marker 33 therefore we were overjoyed - we had done it! Assuming the boat dock was simply around the corner we allowed ourselves time for some victory dancing over the mile marker - take that milford!

Unfortunately, the track has a bit of a sense of humour (or maybe just didn't like Dan's dancing). The track actually ends at 33.5 miles - and after thinking we were done it was one of the toughest dang half miles on the track. Ouch our aching feet!

Regardless, we of course managed to reach the true end of the track. You can see us below a bit less enthusiastic than at the previous mile marker!

Finally we boarded an old boat to take us to the Milford Sound wharf. You can see Julie above and know that she was thinking - enough with the dang photos, let me sit down!!!

Milford and Doubtful Sounds (plus Lake Manapouri)

The Routeburn track ends near what Rudyard Kipling described as the '8th wonder of the world' - Milford Sound. Milford is actually a fiord, carved by a glacier with sheer mountains rising straight up from the sea (perhaps the tallest examples of this anywhere in the world). Even more cool is that the sheer cliffs continue straight down below the sea another 3000 feet!

We arrived at Milford after our hike to find gorgeous weather (despite the pouring rain a few miles away). Despite the aching muscles we dragged ourselves out for some pics including the one above. It was almost so pretty that first day it seemed fake, out of some digitally enhanced movie or picturebook. Peter Jackson eat your heart out.

The next day we hopped on a cruise to explore the sound more closely. The weather was more iffy but wow was it gorgeous. Given that the water stayed several thousand feet deep right next to shore the boat was able to maneuver in close under many of the numerous waterfalls and next to the animal life. We actually got to see Penguins! Penguins! Cool and cute when they hop about. Alas it was raining so no good pics to show you.
The pic above is looking back at the end of the sound - you can see the same waterfall you saw in the first pic from the previous day.



Overall a fun few hours out on the water. Unfortunately, the sound did feel a bit commercialized (at least by NZ standards). In the pic above you can see two other tour boats plying the sound in the far distance . Good for perspective if not to appreciate the pristine nature of the area.

After the cruise we hopped on a bus and headed for Te Anau. Te Anau is a small town on a big lake by the same name that serves as a base for the area. It was to serve as our rest stop to recover between our two hikes. Go hot tubs!

Anyhow, the next day we started our journey to see Milfords big brother - Doubtful Sound. Doubtful is so remote you need to take a bus to a boat - ride for 50 minutes and then hop on another bus for 30 minutes, before arriving at yet another boat to see the sound. The cool thing is that after Milford it is the next most accessible fiord along NZ's beautiful SW coast.

While we weren't expecting anything from the journey to the sound we were amazed by the beauty of Lake Manapouri that we crossed along the way. See below for just one of the many amazing views we were treated to.


Given that Doubtful is many times the size of Milford and much more remote it has much more of a feel of a pristine wilderness. We went with a small tour operator that allowed us to cruise the sound for hours. So pretty - countless waterfalls, hanging valleys, sheer cliffs, seals, and mountains mountains mountains. cool stuff.


Doubtful from above.

The Routeburn Track

The picture above was taken as we drove from the glaciers on the west coast of the South Island, across the mountains and down to Queenstown. The drive was one of the absolute best in our lives passing amazing scenery all along the way. The day was gorgeous and the mountains were 'out' allowing for the amazing views.
This pic above was the view from our hostel in Queenstown and shows the Remarkables Mountain range. Queenstown was our base to buy a few last minute items before our big hike. Since we will revisit the place at the end of our trip we will save further commentary until then...I know you will all be waiting with bated breath.

Ok, so after getting provisions and the like for the hike, we hopped on the bus and set out for the Routeburn Shelter, the start of our three day wilderness adventure. The Routeburn was to be our first truly backpacking experience.

The hike involved approximately 20 miles spread over three days, with approximately a 1500 foot elevation gain and loss (though actually you do well over twice this as you gain and lose elevation).
The picture above was taken at the very start of the track. Julie was as eager as she looks while Dan was already tired (those packs were heavy!!). We've both hiked quite a bit, but with 30 pounds on the back its just a different experience. You do actually get a bit used to it after a fashion though.

The hike starts by following the Routeburn river as it races through a valley, down a gorge, through another valley, and then finally at a truly impressive falls that we weren't going to get to until the second day. The path crosses over the river repeatedly, multiple times with fun, if a bit scary, swing bridges. Dan had fun bouncing around (until he felt sick) while Julie merely hung on for dear life. Below is Julie on bridge 3 or 4.
The river itself was really pretty as it had that gorgeous turquoise color that seems to be found all over NZ.
After a cool forest and a big meadow, we started to gain some serious elevation. Soon we were treated to great views of the valley despite the clouds (and drizzle) that hung overhead. Really pretty!
Before too long (the first day was only 5.5 miles) we were approaching the first hut. Soon we would be enjoying baileys and hot chocolate as our reward for a good day's hike.

The second day started with a bang! We, being lazy and wet the night before, hadn't realized that 30 yards past the hut was a series of great waterfalls. Cool - but cold as we had arrived above the tree line and the wind whipping. Welcome to alpine country!
After a breathtaking hike in some stark but gorgeous alpine scenery, all the while treated to views far below to the valley we had come from the previous day, we arrived at the source of the river we had been hiking along for a day and a half. Lake Harris was beautiful, the rain was holding off and we were even seeing some blue sky. We were pumped!


Soon we were at the Saddle itself, the highest part of the hike and the place where we passed from one side of a mountain range to the other. We went from great views down the Routeburn to views along another valley, the Hollyford. This section of the track has been described as some of the most beautiful of any track in the world. While we were fortunate not to be staring into (and walking in) a cloud, our views were definitely heavily obscured by clouds along the other side. Despite this, we were enthralled by the few glimpses we were afforded as we walked along the exposed ridgeline for miles.

The day ended with a steep descent down to another mountain lake (Lake Mackenzie) and another hut. Like the previous hut, the second was sited in an amazing location. The pic below is taken just steps away from the hut along the shore of the lake at twilight. We had a moment alone and just savored being where we were.

Alas, no more pics as the last day of the hike it poured the entire day. We have a few with the waterproof camera but those will have to wait until our return. A bit of a bummer but we were treated to amazing forests (the moss is hard to describe - its everywhere and makes things so green its hard to take in and impossible to capture) and many, many, many waterfalls. Still cool.

All in all a wonderful hike and an experience we will long remember. Now, on to the 'sounds' - Milford and Doubtful. Cheers!

Fox and Franz Joseph Glaciers

After Abel Tasman we made the long (7+ hrs) drive down the west coast of NZ to the Fox and Franz Joseph Glaciers. The west coast of NZ is a pretty desolate place - parts of it are some of the rainiest in the world and there are few people. However, it is also quite beautiful. We drove along dramatic river gorges, ocean drives that rivaled the Big Sur, alpine scenery (see pic below) and of course the two glaciers.

Fox and Franz Joseph are two out of the three glaciers in the world that flow into temperate rain forest. As we drove up to the first glacier we kept remarking that the whole feel of the place seemed off - more jungle like, not at all like the high, cold mountains that we associated with glaciers. Anyhow, pretty cool.
Above is a pic of the Franz Joseph Glacier from a short hike to gain some height. The scenery in the clouds is the 'Southern Alps' and include the mountains around Mt. Cook (the highest in NZ).

The big event was a day spent walking around on the Fox Glacier, the larger of the two. After getting geared up, we started the day by hiking up the mountain running alongside the glacier. After getting above the front part of the glacier with its numerous crevasses, we came down the mountain onto the glacier itself. At this point we strapped on crampons and started wandering about (following the guides wielding pickaxes as they blazed a path) a truly foreign landscape

We went up and down, over and around towers of ice, small and large crevasses, and all sorts of debris churned up by the glacier. All around us water was melting and running down holes in the glacier, collecting in big rivers of meltwater running underneath the glacier and exiting at the front as the Fox river. Pretty cool! Dan of course enjoyed breaking up the ice with his ice pick and sending chunks down the crevasses to see how deep they were. Jules shook her head and concentrated on not finding out for herself in a much more unfortunate manner.


Dan playing in a filled in crevasse - and getting a bit claustrophobic as the walls went up several stories straight above him.

A view of the fox glacier from half way up its flank.

In all we were on the glacier for several hours and by the end of the day, back on the bus into town, we were amazed at how tired we were. All of the continuous up and down and the weird manner of walking with the crampons left us totally exhausted. Jules was sore for days (walking around like an old lady!). Fun though!

Abel Tasman Narional Park

After the Queen Charlotte we headed for the North Western side of the South Island. The moutains were similar, though a bit smaller, and the sea and bush were also similar. But while the QC area was all about big mountains right by the sea, the Abel Tasman is about big golden sand beaches.

The pictures of this place online and in tour books are amazing and we were really excited about this portion of the trip. Our first day however was totally overcast and the whole park left us disappointed. We had taken a cruise towards the northern end of the park (most of the park being accessible only on foot or by water) and then hiked down to a long stretch (nearly a mile long) of beach. Besides a little fun crossing a stream (see Jules below) the day was a bit of a dud. The water didn't sparkle and the beach was a bit cold given the weather.



Jules didn't appreciate my picture taking and catcalls as she crossed this stream - but come on, what's a guy supposed to do?

We almost gave up on the park to explore elsewhere (Julie had wine tasting on her mind, I know you are all surprised). We were a bit lazy though and decided to stick to the trip we had booked earlier - a day of kayaking along the coast. Wow are we glad we did.

The weather was gorgeous - not a cloud in the sky and the water sparkled more beautifully than any pic could capture. Our guide was great as we had an easy paddle past many birds, sea caves, and just generally pretty scenery. Besides the sexy outfits we wore, it was all good.

The kayak trip immediately became one of the highlights of the trip. Its really hard to beat gently paddling by some rare birds, with golden sand beaches on one side and gorgeous mountain scenery in the distance on the other. What a day!